Navigating the Impenetrable Darien Gap

Continuing from Xplorer Journal: Darien Gap Trek to the Monkey Stone, aka Yarre Mongara...

Leaving Puerto Quimba, Darien Province, Panama our expedition team traveled by motor boat from Puerto Quimba along the Rio Turia passed Isla Mangle, and onto its southern fork, Rio Balsas, or "River of Rafts". Rio Balsas journeys through the heart of Darien Gap all the way to the Colombian border. Most settlements and villages lie along the rivers as these are the main arteries and highways for travel, communication, medical attention, and to transport goods and livestock. The only other means to reach these remote locations is by foot, though some primitive dirt roads are in place for motorbikes and even off-road vehicles. However, where our expedition trekked, there were usually no trails, and the only means to venture forward were by bushwhacking and wading rivers.

Rio Balsas, or in English "River of Rafts"

The water level of the rivers was much lower than expected, and our boat was marooned many times along the snaking, switch backs of Rio Balsas. As a consequence, our voyage took hours longer than expected and forced our first night's stay at Camoganti, a small village nestled between the Chepigana Forest Reserve and the river's edge. To get our gear to dry land we had to form a human chain, passing each piece of luggage from one to another off the boat and up onto the riverbank.

Human chain on the banks of Rio Balsas at Camoganti, Darien Gap

The Camoganti townspeople were very accommodating to our unexpected arrival...

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